Full brows are all the rage, with stars like Cara Delevingne and Lily Collins rocking thick, statement-making eyebrows. And even among us mere mortals, we all have that friend who shows up with flawless eyebrows—Every. Single. Time. It looks like she either woke up like that or nailed a seriously meticulous Instagram tutorial (or she's really, really good at using a brow pencil). But in reality, the secret to her effortless brows might actually be microblading.

But what is it exactly? Microblading is a form of semi-permanent cosmetic tattooing, according to feathered eyebrow expert Kristie Streicher at STRIIIKE in Beverly Hills, which she co-founded with her sisters Jenn and Ashley. After numbing the area with topical cream, the technician will create tiny hair-like incisions using a fine blade with needles, then deposit small amounts of pigment, which penetrates the top layer of the brow skin. This helps make sparse or patchy brows look fuller.

Microblading is not as big a commitment as, say, permanent makeup, since the smaller amount of dye leads to faster fading, according to a report from the Society of Permanent Makeup Professionals. But it can be expensive, depending on where you live and what salon you choose. According to estimates from RealSelf.com, the average cost of a microblading session is $425.

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Here’s what else you should know about the trendy procedure before you book your next microblading sesh.

This can be trickier than it sounds, because regulations vary. In the state of California, for example, Streicher says the salon should not only be approved by the county health department, but the technician should be a certified body art practitioner and have a microblading certification. Microblading requires a similar amount of training (a minimum of 100 hours) as any other type of permanent cosmetics, according to the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals. According to industry data, most people who are practicing permanent cosmetic technicians are also estheticians or cosmetologists. 

Take this with a grain of salt, however: Jeanine Downie, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and director of Image Dermatology in Montclair, New Jersey, says microblading is “very loosely regulated,” so your best bet is relying on word of mouth. A certification hung on the wall doesn’t necessarily indicate anything. “Ask your friends that have been satisfied and monitor their results a couple months after,” she says. Wherever you go, make sure the blade and needles used for your procedure are brand-new and sterile. 

Related: 6 Signs You Should Walk Out of a Nail Salon ASAP

Downie says you shouldn’t wax or spray tan before a microblading appointment since it can irritate the skin and tarnish results. Streicher also recommends skipping alpha hydroxy acid products, retinoids, and exfoliating treatments for two weeks prior to the procedure, because those can be similarly irritating to the skin. She also advises patients avoid blood thinners, aspirin, and alcohol up to one week before treatment because excessive bleeding may prevent proper absorption of the pigment. (Remember, you're going to be getting lots of micro-cuts on your skin—if you take blood thinners, that will make you less likely to clot!) Although there is a numbing cream administered to help with any pain or discomfort with the needles, you should be fine taking a Tylenol before the procedure since it's not a blood thinner.

Be sure to check with the salon before your appointment for specific recommendations that they have. 

Related: How To Banish Dark Circles And Puffy Eyes for Good

So, what does that look like? Downie says her patients who get microblading see results lasting for around a year, with eyebrows looking “dark, pretty, and quite natural.” But if only that rang true across the board. Streicher says your amount of natural eyebrow hair, skin type, incision application and pressure, pigments used, and how well you follow aftercare directions can all impact results. Her clients’ results usually last six to 12 months, but she recommends touch ups every four to six months.

Immediately after your appointment, you should expect some inflammation and the color of the pigment will look a little darker until the area heals—which can take a minimum of two weeks. As part of the healing process, your brows will scab so don't be TOO freaked out when that happens. 

If you're not a fan, it might be a little harder to get rid of those results. According to RealSelf.com, you'll have to resort to laser, dermabrasion, or excision treatments to get rid of the color—all of which you can do at a dermatologists' office. However, you'd need to wait a few weeks to make sure your brows are healed before you can undergo a procedure. 

Here are some real women's before-and-afters to see the range of what to expect: 

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While your BFF might be serving brows on fleek, it’s not for everyone. If you have sensitive skin, steer clear. Those who tend to develop allergies may react to the pigment or experience contact dermatitis. Microblading on keloids and scars is a huge no-no as well, according to Downie. Don’t opt for microblading if you have liver disease, or are pregnant or nursing.

If you’re experiencing any inflammation or rashes, don’t try to treat it with funky home remedies. Go see a board-certified dermatologist, says Downie. As a precaution, Streicher suggests asking your technician for a list of pigment ingredients and to test a small patch prior to your session.

Not sure if microblading is for you? Here are 3 easy ways to fill in your eyebrows:

preview for 3 Easy Ways To Fill In Your Eyebrows

You should be slathering on at least SPF 30 every day, but make that a special priority after microblading, according to Downie—sun exposure can hinder the healing process. Maintain a thin layer of either Aquaphor, Neosporin, or coconut butter on the brows until healed to keep out water and prevent pigment from fading (and prevent infection). Excessive sweating can “push out” pigment leading to fading, according to Streicher, so be aware of this if you exercise a lot. For added comfort, sleep on your back the next few nights following your treatment so as not to irritate your raw, tender skin. 

Headshot of Marissa Miller
Marissa Miller
Marissa Miller has spent a decade editing and reporting on women’s health issues from an intersectional lens with a focus on peer-reviewed nutrition, fitness trends, mental health, skincare, reproductive rights and beyond, and currently holds a certificate in plant-based nutrition from Cornell. She is an avid yoga practitioner, half-marathon runner, snowboarder, and former dance coach and choreographer. In addition to Women’s Health, her work has appeared in The New York Times, Washington Post, Wall Street Journal, NBC News, GQ, Vogue, CNN Style, and more. Marissa lives in Montreal with her two cats. She is represented by Howland Literary and her debut novel PRETTY WEIRD will be published by Skyhorse Publishing in 2021.